Lam So Pagoda is the largest pagoda on Koh Samui. Most tourists too literally reproduce the Latin transliteration of Laem Sor Pagoda, as «Laem Sor Pagoda», but you now know that it is Lam So. Big, beautiful, golden, exotic - everything as a person who visits Thailand for the first time likes. That is why many tourists know about the Lam So pagoda, and almost no one is aware of the Rattanakosin pagoda, and in fact it stands next door.
It is a common thing when excursion companies choose routes so that vacationers see only the main attractions, which should be easily accessible, large-scale and bright. The approach is reasonable and explainable, but I feel sorry for those people who would like to see more, but are squeezed into the framework of the excursion.
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Lam So Pagoda
Laem Sor Pagoda is an impressively huge, golden, beautiful structure on the very edge of the coast. At the bottom of the frontal part of the pagoda there is a glass booth with a statue of a monk seated inside, and the entrance to the pagoda is guarded by terrible Rakshasis. Next to the pagoda there is a building in which monks live, they can always be found there - a place popular even among Thais. Therefore, it is especially important here to observe the dress code for visiting Buddhist shrines..
If you inadvertently forget about decency, the monks will not say anything, but the monks' assistants and parishioners are still constantly circulating there, at whom they will not scold you. The parking lot near the pagoda is quite spacious, there is a constant visit from an aunt who sells coconuts for drinking and coconut oil. Be careful with her pet monkey - she doesn't like being teased and can bite painfully. This is especially true for children..
By the way, the Lam So pagoda used to stand on a nearby hill, but then it was moved down. It was moved due to the fact that lightning struck it twice, and twice destroyed the holy structure. The Thais planned the transfer as a temporary measure, but in the end, Lam So remained standing on the shore, and now she suffers from sea waves that regularly collapse the site behind the pagoda..
There were almost no people on my arrival, although I was in the high season in January. Apparently, because a lot of people are only during excursions. As I wrote above, the pagoda stands right on the shore and there is a beach near it. It is dirty with natural and artificial debris. But you know this is the combination «pagoda + sea + absence of people» creates a special atmosphere, at least for me. It's hard for me to explain why, but it is. Either because I am not quite accustomed to seeing a Thai temple right on the beach, or because when I visited there were strong waves and the elements tried to wash this pagoda into the sea (a kind of struggle between nature and man). Or maybe I was simply hooked on this corner of Samui, because most of all I love the beautiful nature and uncrowded sights. By the way, there are also casuarines growing on the shore, which I also love..
In a glass house to the left of the pagoda (if you are facing the sea), there is a boat inside and a statue of a monk. This is a statue, not a mummy. More about mummified monks in my other post.
Baby buddha
Rattanakosin Jaidee, she is Rattanakosin Chedi, she is Buddha Jaidee, she is Baby Buddha Chedi, Baby Buddha or Little Buddha. The pagoda is not popular with Russian travel guides, but I regularly noticed tourists from Asia there. It is located on the top of a hill, which stands next to the Lam So pagoda. This is exactly the hill on which lightning twice destroyed the golden pagoda, after which it was carried down.
A holy place is never empty - the Thais built a smaller pagoda here, painted it white and put inside the relics of the Buddha brought from Sri Lanka. On the territory around the Rattanakosin pagoda there is a place for meditation, houses of monks, a sculptural ensemble of Buddhas: lying, sitting, and even a baby Buddha with a finger raised into the sky.
Since this is a hill, then consider that, in addition to the pagoda, you will also visit the observation deck. Above opens a good view to the east and south, and also a great place to meet the sunset..
I highly recommend visiting Baby Buddha too, she is very close there. Not that the views are stunning, but without visiting this lookout, my personal trip would not be complete..
Information to visit
Observe the dress code, this is all you need to know about visiting both pagodas. Access is open around the clock, but after dark there is absolutely nothing to do, except to run away from the dogs. Parking is free. The entrance to the hill with Baby Buddha is very, I repeat - very, very steep. Dangerously cool. And what is bad - it is still not straight, but with a 90-degree turn in the middle, in short, I recommend only experienced drivers to drive in, people there fight regularly.
On the map
Attractions around Laem So Pagoda
Rattanakosin Pagoda:
Laem Sor Pagoda:
Statue of a seated monk with ships:
Temple boat: